Óbidos Religious Heritage

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By the GoÓbidos Team●24 December 2014

Óbidos Religious Heritage: Churches, Chapels and a Sanctuary


Josefa de Óbidos’s tomb, Gothic doorways and 17th-century tiles: a route through the churches of the village, most of them free to visit.

Church tower beside the castle walls of Óbidos
A church tower beside the walls of Óbidos. Photo: GoÓbidos

The history of Óbidos is made of ancient peoples, Celts, Romans, Moors, conquests, castles, kings and queens. Its churches and chapels tell much of that story, and most of them can be visited for free.

A short history

People have lived here since Neolithic times, as the hill fort of Outeiro da Assenta shows. The Romans built the city of Eburobrittium nearby, and the land was later held by the Moors until 1148, when the first Portuguese king conquered the castle.

King Dinis (1279–1325) gave the village to his wife, Queen Isabel, as a wedding gift, and until 1834 Óbidos belonged to the “House of the Queens”. The 1755 earthquake damaged many of its churches, and in 1974 a preparatory meeting for the Carnation Revolution of 25 April was held here.

Church of Santa Maria

  • Where: Praça de Santa Maria, by the pillory
  • Highlights: paintings by Josefa de Óbidos, 17th-century tiles, tomb by Nicolau Chanterene

The main church of the village was founded by King Afonso Henriques on the ruins of an earlier temple and entirely rebuilt in the 16th century under King João III and Queen Catarina. Its Renaissance doorway shows Our Lady venerated by angels, and inside, 17th-century tiles line the walls (see the listing).

Look for the paintings by Josefa de Óbidos and her father, Baltazar Gomes Figueira, and for the tomb of João de Noronha, by Nicolau Chanterene, a pioneer of Renaissance sculpture in Portugal.

Church of Santa Maria and the pillory in Óbidos
The Church of Santa Maria, the main church of Óbidos. Photo: GoÓbidos

Church of São Pedro

Damaged by the 1755 earthquake, it keeps only traces of its Gothic doorway on the façade. Inside, see the 18th-century statues of Saint Barbara, Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and the gilded altarpiece framing a painting by João da Costa of Saint Peter receiving the keys of heaven (see the listing).

The painter Josefa de Óbidos (1630–1684) was buried here, at her own request, close to her patron, Our Lady of the Rosary.

Church of São Pedro in Óbidos
The Church of São Pedro, where Josefa de Óbidos is buried. Photo: GoÓbidos

Church of the Misericórdia

Founded by Queen Leonor, wife of King João II, the church has a Baroque doorway. Inside, the nave is lined with 17th-century blue and yellow tiles, and two paintings by André Reinoso show the Visitation and Pentecost (see the listing).

Paintings inside the Church of the Misericórdia in Óbidos
Inside the Church of the Misericórdia. Photo: GoÓbidos

Church of São João Baptista

Its oldest records go back to 1309, when Queen Isabel founded a leper hospital with a chapel dedicated to Saint Vincent. Next to the Porta da Vila, it now houses the Parish Museum and its temporary exhibitions (see the listing).

Church of São João Baptista, home of the Parish Museum of Óbidos
The Church of São João Baptista, now the Parish Museum. Photo: GoÓbidos

Church of São Tiago

Dating from 1186, in the reign of King Sancho I, it served the royal family during their stays in Óbidos. Destroyed by the 1755 earthquake, it was rebuilt by 1772. Today it is the Santiago Bookshop, one of the landmarks of the Literary Village.

Chapel of São Martinho

A family funeral chapel opposite the Church of São Pedro, founded by the priest Pêro Fernandes in 1331. Its pointed doorway, with three archivolts and a Gothic inscription, leads to three tombs under a ribbed vault; two more medieval tombs stand outside (see the listing).

Tomb under a pointed arch inside the Chapel of São Martinho in Óbidos
Inside the Gothic Chapel of São Martinho. Photo: GoÓbidos

Chapel of Our Lady of Monserrate

Just outside the walls, it has a Baroque doorway with the arms of the Franciscan order. Inside, a single nave and a domed chancel are covered with tiles from the first half of the 17th century; the altarpiece by Belchior de Matos (c. 1600) shows Saint John in Patmos (see the listing).

Chapel of Our Lady of Carmo

Outside the walls, on the western slope, it is linked by tradition to a Roman temple to Jupiter. Its present façade results from 20th-century works after the 1755 earthquake. Note the medieval belfry; the 15th-century statue of Saint John the Baptist from this chapel is now in the Municipal Museum (see the listing).

Doorway of the Chapel of Our Lady of Carmo in Óbidos
The Chapel of Our Lady of Carmo, outside the walls. Photo: GoÓbidos

Senhor Jesus da Pedra Sanctuary

At the entrance to Óbidos, on the road to Caldas da Rainha, this sanctuary was begun in 1747 to a design by Captain Rodrigo Franco. It is circular outside and hexagonal inside, with unusual inverted windows (see the listing).

The main altar holds the stone image of the crucified Christ that gives the sanctuary its name, found in a roadside chapel. The side chapels have paintings by José da Costa Negreiros, and the chancel a painting by André Gonçalves.

Baroque Senhor Jesus da Pedra Sanctuary in Óbidos
The Senhor Jesus da Pedra Sanctuary, begun in 1747. Photo: GoÓbidos

Guided tour

Óbidos: Medieval Tales & Secret Spots

A local guide tells the stories behind the churches, queens and legends of Óbidos, inside the walls.

See the tour · from €33

Frequently asked questions

Are the churches of Óbidos free to visit?

Most of them are free. Opening hours vary, so it is best to visit during the day and check before you go.

Where is Josefa de Óbidos buried?

In the Church of São Pedro, at her own request. Her paintings can be seen in the Church of Santa Maria and in the Municipal Museum.

Why does the Senhor da Pedra Sanctuary have inverted windows?

It is one of the architectural peculiarities of this 18th-century Baroque church, which is circular outside and hexagonal inside.

More about Óbidos

This article was prepared by the GoÓbidos team, the local tourist guide to Óbidos. Please check dates, opening hours and prices with the organisers before your visit.

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