Inspiration>Festivals

By the GoÓbidos Team●9 March 2016

Óbidos Holy Week: Processions, Music and Four Centuries of Tradition


Torchlit processions, the barefoot “gafaú” and the 400-year-old Procession of the Steps: why Holy Week is the high point of the Óbidos calendar.

Palm Sunday procession through the streets of Óbidos
The Palm Sunday procession in the streets of Óbidos. Photo: GoÓbidos

Every year, the religious and cultural ceremonies of Óbidos Holy Week draw thousands of people to the village. They are among the oldest in Portugal: the Procession of the Steps (Procissão dos Passos) is more than 400 years old.

Holy Week is the high point of the liturgical and cultural calendar of Óbidos, an important moment for the local community and for the many pilgrims and visitors who come to watch. Classical concerts, mostly of sacred music, and other cultural activities complete the programme.

Statue of Jesus carried during Óbidos Holy Week
A statue of Jesus during Holy Week in Óbidos. Photo: GoÓbidos

The ceremonies

The re-enactment of the Descent from the Cross ends with the moving Procession of the Burial of the Lord, held in darkness except for the torches carried by young people placed along the route.

On Easter Sunday, the Eucharistic Procession goes out with representatives of the parishes. In the 1960s it was opened by the carried image of the Risen Lord, a 17th-century statue venerated in the Church of São Tiago, by the castle.

Procession of the Steps during Holy Week in Óbidos
The Procession of the Steps, more than 400 years old. Photo: GoÓbidos

The history of Holy Week

Óbidos remains a stage for historical and religious celebrations. Evoking the Passion and death of Christ, Holy Week brings people together out of devotion or simple cultural curiosity, and it soon became the best “poster” for the village. In 1963 the ceremonies were included in the national tourism calendar.

The tradition begins with the centuries-old Penitential Procession of the Third Order of Saint Francis, which prepares the inner journey of Lent. Floats richly decorated with flowers carry some of the main saints of Franciscan devotion.

On Palm Sunday, over a carpet of olive branches, rosemary and greenery, the Procession of the Lord of the Steps winds through the streets inside and outside the walls. It stops at small shrines evoking the Stations of the Passion and ends at the Church of the Misericórdia.

The procession is led by a traditional figure, the gafaú, who walks barefoot with his head wrapped in a cloth and plays a wind instrument called the serpentão. He represents the executioner, announcing to the crowd that the condemned man is approaching.

Crowd in the square by the Church of São Tiago during Óbidos Holy Week
The square by the Church of São Tiago during Holy Week. Photo: GoÓbidos

How to get to Óbidos

Óbidos is about 45 minutes north of Lisbon. By car, take the A8 motorway (around €5 in tolls from Lisbon). From Porto, take the A1 to Leiria and then the A8 towards Lisbon.

By bus, Rede Expressos leaves from Sete Rios and Rodoviária do Oeste from Campo Grande, both in Lisbon. The train is slower and the Óbidos station is some distance from the centre of the village.

Other annual events in Óbidos

Holy Week marks Easter, but the village hosts festivals all year round: the International Chocolate and Pastry Festival in spring, the Medieval Market in summer, the FOLIO literary festival in autumn and the Óbidos Christmas Village in December. See the full calendar in Festivals in Óbidos.

Recommended guided tour

Guided tours in Óbidos

Walk the processional route with a local guide and hear the stories of the churches, queens and legends of Óbidos.

See the tours · from €33

Frequently asked questions

When is Óbidos Holy Week?

It takes place in the week before Easter, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday. Dates change every year with the Easter calendar.

What is the Procession of the Steps?

It is the Palm Sunday procession of the Lord of the Steps, which has taken place for more than 400 years. It stops at small shrines evoking the Passion and ends at the Church of the Misericórdia.

Who is the “gafaú”?

A traditional figure who walks barefoot at the head of the procession, playing the serpentão. He represents the executioner announcing the arrival of the condemned man.

More about Óbidos

This article was prepared by the GoÓbidos team, the local tourist guide to Óbidos. Please check dates, opening hours and prices with the organisers before your visit.

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