FOLIO, the Óbidos International Literary Festival: Where Books Take Over the Village

Since 2015, FOLIO, the Óbidos International Literary Festival, has been a reference in Portugal’s cultural calendar and beyond. Every year, great names of Portuguese and international literature come to the village to celebrate books.

Past guests include Salman Rushdie, Mia Couto, José Eduardo Agualusa, Rachel Kushner, Ricardo Araújo Pereira, Gregório Duvivier, Mário Zambujal, Julián Fuks, Karla Suárez and J.A. González Sainz.

Related: Latitudes, the travel-writing festival

About FOLIO

The festival spreads across the whole village: book launches, talks, exhibitions, concerts and readings, with Portuguese and international authors. It is supported by publishers such as Tinta-da-China, Abysmo, Presença, Gradiva, Relógio d’Água, Penguin Random House, D. Quixote, Quetzal and Porto Editora.

Bookshops to visit

There are so many book spaces in the village that it is hard to see them all. These are the ones you should not miss:

Santiago Bookshop

Set inside the Church of São Tiago, by the castle. The church served the royal family during their stays in Óbidos and became a bookshop with the Literary Village project. Books, film screenings, debates, launches and a coffee.

Market Bookshop

On Rua Direita, the main street, in the old refectory of the town hall. Second-hand books in fruit crates, mixed with organic products: rare books, travel, food and wine, in several languages.

Cellar Bookshop

At Espaço Ó, by the entrance to the village, outside the walls. Books are displayed in wine cases, alongside a general and second-hand bookshop and a wine and snack bar.

NovaOgiva Gallery

On Rua Direita, next to the Municipal Museum: exhibitions, screenings, performances and a bookshop (see the listing).

Bicho do Conto

In an old primary school, a literary project “for readers aged 0 to 200”, with a wide range of children’s books.

Opening hours vary by space; check the Ler Devagar website or contact obidos@lerdevagar.com.

A UNESCO City of Literature

FOLIO played a key role in Óbidos joining the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Literature. Other creative cities, such as Granada, Heidelberg and Montreal, have brought their own programmes to the festival.

Practical information

• Where: inside the walls and in venues outside them, such as the area by the old fire station
• Tickets: many events are free; check prices and bookings on the official website
• When: usually in autumn; check the official programme
• Parking: free car parks by the fire station; paid parking by the aqueduct
• Cash machines: by the Porta da Vila and on Rua Direita
• Tourist office: outside the walls, next to the main (paid) car park

The organisers note that access is limited for people with reduced mobility, wheelchairs and pushchairs.

How to get to Óbidos

Óbidos is about 45 minutes north of Lisbon. By car, take the A8 motorway (around €5 in tolls from Lisbon). From Porto, take the A1 to Leiria and then the A8 towards Lisbon.

By bus, Rede Expressos leaves from Sete Rios and Rodoviária do Oeste from Campo Grande, both in Lisbon. The train is slower and the Óbidos station is some distance from the centre of the village.

Where to eat and sleep

The village fills up during the festival, so book ahead. For meals, try Jamón Jamón, A Nova Casa do Ramiro or O Caldeirão. To sleep, Hotel Josefa d’Óbidos, Casal da Eira Branca, Casa das Senhoras Rainhas or Praia d’El Rey Marriott. Staying inside the walls is charming, but the streets are narrow and you will need to park outside.

Before or after FOLIO

• Óbidos Lagoon: the largest coastal lagoon in Portugal, for walking, cycling and birdwatching (read more)
• Foz do Arelho: beach, water sports and fresh fish and seafood
• Caldas da Rainha: the Thermal Hospital founded by Queen Leonor in 1485, considered the oldest in the world
• Peniche: the National Museum of Resistance and Freedom in the old fort, and some of the best surf beaches in Portugal
• Nazaré: fishing traditions, women in seven skirts and the giant waves of Praia do Norte
• Alcobaça: the Cistercian monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its convent sweets

Frequently asked questions

When is FOLIO?

FOLIO usually takes place in autumn and lasts several days. Check the official website for this year’s programme.

Is FOLIO free?

Many talks, exhibitions and launches are free. Some events have tickets; check the official programme.

Why is Óbidos a City of Literature?

Óbidos joined the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Literature thanks to its Literary Village project, with bookshops in churches, cellars and markets, and to FOLIO.

More about Óbidos

• Festivals in Óbidos
• Latitudes festival
• Art and culture in Óbidos
• What to do in Óbidos
• Guided tours in Óbidos
• Explore Óbidos

This article was prepared by the GoÓbidos team, the local tourist guide to Óbidos. Please check dates, opening hours and prices with the organisers before your visit.